Hota H6 Pro Battery Charger Disassembly & AC Fuse Replacement

Written By: KW-M

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Hota H6 Pro Battery Charger Disassembly & AC Fuse Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

2 hours

Introduction

The Hota H6 Pro also sold as the Hobbymate Speed H6 Smart Charger and the Blue Robotics H6 PRO Lithium Battery Charger is a compact 200w AC/DC battery charger for various lithium and other battery chemistries up to a 6S balanced cell count.

This guide will show you how to:

Disassemble the H6 Pro
Replace the internal AC power fuses.
- This may be needed if AC input does not work, but the DC input does work.
- Due to the circuit design, the AC fuse is UNLIKELY to blow before other damage occurs so you'll probably need to do some digging to find if any other components are fried.

Tools

Parts

Littelfuse 39214000000

Step 1

Be sure to unplug power and all batteries before starting.
Keep ALL power sources away until the charger is fully reassembled. I destroyed my unit by plugging in a battery too early.
Insert a pick above the DC IN plug
Pry pick down to slightly raise the top plate above the body

Step 2

Insert a second pick in the gap between the faceplate layer and the plastic frame below
Work the pick all the way around the edges of the faceplate with a rocking motion to separate the glue.
Slowly peel the faceplate off and keep it somewhere safe so the glue doesn't get dirty

Step 3

Remove the 4 small screws in the corners

Step 4

Starting at the side with the screen, use a pick around the edge to lift the plastic lid.
Lift the lid plate straight up along with the fan.
Be firm but gentle - there are thin ribbon cables connecting the display and green board to the circuit below.

Step 5

Pull the top plate horizontally away from the fan.
The fan is friction fit onto the two plastic pins on the top plate
Remember not to tug hard on the ribbon cables.

Step 6

Lift the tiny black hinged clamps on the ribbon cable connectors for the display and green circuit board.

Step 7

Use tweezers to slide the ribbon cables horizontally back out of the connector slots.
For re-assembly make sure the end of the ribbon cable lies flat in the connector before pushing the stiff part of the ribbon cable further in with the tweezers. Use another finger or tool to close the black clamp while you hold the cable

Step 8

Remove top plate.
Pull out fan - it will be attached by long wires.

Step 9

Remove the two small black screws holding the upper circuit board down.

Step 10

Slightly lift up on the side of the circuit board by the fan
Slide the circuit board out at this angle to avoid bending the battery balance connector pins

Step 11

Remove the 3 screws holding the heat sink to the back of the circuit board
This unlabeled chip (yellow arrow) gave up the smoke when I tried to power the DC Input before fully reassembling the unit. - Don't try it!

Step 12

WARNING dangerous voltages may still be present in this part of the circuit even after unplugging everything. Especially capacitors shown in red. ASSUME any exposed metal here could shock you like a wall outlet and take appropriate safety measures like gloves and/or shorting the terminals of these capacitors.

Step 13

Slide the AC power socket up and out of the case.

Step 14

Remove the 4 corner screws holding Down the AC high voltage PCB

Step 15

The two fuses shown here can be Desoldered and replaced if needed.
Test the fuses by using a multimeter to probe the resistance between the pairs of pins (shown in green) on the underside of the circuit board. Working fuses should be near zero resistance. Broken fuses will show 'infinite' resistance.
Neither fuse was blown in my unit, so the problem was elsewhere. These fuses seem more likely to prevent a fire and may not save the charger from overload damage. Your milage may vary...