JBL Flip 6 Motherboard Replacement

Written By: Cody Chamberlain

Comments: 1

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

20 minutes

Introduction

If your JBL Flip 6 speaker is experiencing persistent issues such as no power, malfunctioning buttons, or a failure to connect via Bluetooth, the root cause may be a faulty motherboard. The motherboard is the central component that controls all of the speaker’s functions, and a damaged or defective motherboard can lead to a wide range of problems that cannot be resolved through simpler fixes.

Before beginning this replacement guide, check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or loose connections on the motherboard. If the speaker has been exposed to moisture or physical impact, these could be potential indicators that the motherboard needs replacement.

Before starting, power off the speaker and disconnect it from any cables or charging sources to avoid electrical shock or further damage during the repair process.

Tools

Step 1

Using the iFixit opening tool, pry up on the button side of the slot on the case until the clips release.

Step 2

Now that the gap is larger, using the same tool, pry up on the other side until the clips release.

Step 3

With all clips released, slide the case off longways.
You may need to spread it a bit with your hands so that the clips do not become caught on the end pieces.

Step 4

Remove the two 9.5-mm Philips #1 screws securing the tweeter to the device.

Step 5

Insert an opening pick into the gap along the edge of the tweeter.
Push the tip inwards and pry upwards to release the tweeter from the motherboard.

Where is the flip 6 tweeter available?

Siddhant Dube -

Step 6

Use a prying tool to lift up on one of the clips that holds the radiator in place.

Step 7

After the clip has been released, insert a shim to keep the parts separated and from the clipping back together.
Pry on the clip on the other side to fully release the passive radiator.

Step 8

After both clips have been detached, the passive radiator is easier to remove by hand.
Repeat the same steps for the passive radiator on the other side.

Step 9

Remove the four 9.5 mm Philips #1 screws securing the woofer to the device.

Step 10

Carefully disconnect the white connector linking the woofer and the motherboard.
If there is a lot of resistance when removing the plug, there could be a clip holding it in place. Check for any sort of fasteners before using much strength as you could damage the motherboard.

Step 11

Use a spudger to release the clips attaching the cover for the buttons and charging port.
After the two clips are removed, the cover can be removed easier by hand.

Step 12

After the clips have been released, take the cover off, feeding the strap out of the hole.

Step 13

Remove the two 5.7 mm Philips #00 screws holding the charging port cover in place.

Step 14

Using tweezers, pull the blue ribbon from the connector from the charging port board.
After the ribbon is removed, pull the USB-C port out from the outside.

Step 15

Carefully pull the small ribbon cable from its slot.
Lift up on the black locking flaps opposite the ribbon cables, then carefully pull the ribbon cables out of their slots.

Step 16

Carefully disconnect the small ground connector from the motherboard.
When reattaching this connector, it can be tricky to line up and get it to set. The best way to do it is to position the wire with your non-dominant hand, then, using tweezers, pinch the topside of the motherboard and the connector.

Step 17

Remove the two 9.5 mm Philips #1 screws securing the plastic retainer for the battery and motherboard.

Step 18

Pry up on the black tab, then carefully pull the connector from its port on the motherboard.

Step 19

Push on the inside edge of the motherboard until the battery connector is outside of the device case.
Pinch and pull up on the battery connector to release it, freeing both the motherboard and the battery for removal.