MacBook Air 13" Late 2020 Microphone Array Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 21

MacBook Air 13" Late 2020 Microphone Array Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the microphone array assembly in a Late 2020 MacBook Air (M1).

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Do not reuse the battery if it is swollen or was deformed in any way during the procedure. The battery is likely damaged and can be very dangerous to reuse—it should be replaced.

This guide involves removing the speakers and battery. You will need new adhesive to properly reinstall the speakers and battery.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.3 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.

ESD safe mat, plugged into ground, with a wrist strap, also grounded, are the best best to protect the logic board.

Robin Ray -

Re-Assembly Tip: Before putting the screws back in, snap the lower case on and test to make sure the MacBook powers up. When I first re-assembled, I became very nervous I did something wrong because it would not power on. It turns out I just needed to plug the laptop into a power source for it to power up (despite having a good charge before disassembly). It was the perfect way to test the new USB-C ports!

Austin -

Big points to this one, especially for mentioning needing to plug the laptop in. The bottom case needs to be screwed in and laptop needs to be plugged in before it will boot.

Bayden Yazalina -

Wiha 4PL driver for these screws.

Greg Worrel -

Printing out all the images from this Ifixit guide prior to starting and using duct tape help me keep track of screws.

raju midjdeya -

This Guide has a high chance of not working if an aftermarket display is used as MAC serialization was introduced post ~2023. Likely you will need an original MAC screen replacement and to serialize the display for it to work.

Tron Computers -

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Los tornillos se ruedan fácilmente :(

Mishelle Cerón -

Step 3

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
Make sure the metal arm is completely free of the locking tab before lifting the battery connector. The metal locking arm should easily unlatch.
Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, press the battery connector straight down into its socket, making sure it sits flush within the socket.
If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.

Reassembly: I had difficulty going straight down. The connector has some angled edges that made it difficult. Instead, I slotted the wire side in first, then rocked it forward towards the hinge into position.

Sean K -

If having difficulty in flipping the bar up, place the machine vertical and not that there is a small “locking nib” that the bar has to clear. You may have to give the bar honest persuasion to clear the nib.

Harry Dulcamara -

The bar can lock backwards making it very hard to even see let alone move. Great care is needed to shift it. I had to use two thumbnails, one on each side, then once flipped forward it takes more push than I expected to clip it in place. Ensure the plug is fully seated first !

Simon Anthony -

As others commented, it can be hard to click the battery connector back into place. First make sure the bar is not underneath the connector. Then, turning the computer so the connector pins are facing you (LCD hinge end closer to you) can also make it easier to position the connector on top and then click it into place.

madmaxmedia -

Some replacement batteries have a retainer bar that differs from OEM batteries. I had to swap the retainer bar to properly secure it under the "locking nib" to ensure it didn't release on its own (before it could freely swing).

Anthony Collier -

Step 4

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 1.4 mm screws securing the audio board connector cover.
If your T3 bit feels a bit too loose, you may need to use a T4.

Step 5

Remove the audio board connector cover.

Step 6

The right speaker will be on your lefthand side when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the audio board.

Be careful. I replaced the battery twice (first one was 3rd party crappy one). The second time, I pulled the socket off. The directions should say that there is a socket sodered onto the board and the connector has to come out of the socket. The three images did not help me see what to do

Larry R -

Step 7

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the right speaker to the case.

Step 8

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the black pull tab on the speaker's stretch-release adhesive until you can grip it with your fingers.

Step 9

Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a heated iOpener, a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

Pulling the adhesive is a delicate balance between strength and speed. It is important to pull as slowly as possible, with a decent force but not to break it. You can also pull a bit and then relax and wait for the adhesive to pull itself out from under the speaker. Then repeat the short pull and wait.

Even with the above, my adhesives broke each time. A hairdryer can help warm the speaker (and the adhesive under it), but don’t warm the battery next to it too much. Once hot, slowly move the spudger under the speaker and loosen it gradually. It will eventually come off in one piece.

ZeJibe -

Step 10

Remove the right speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of replacement adhesive on its underside before placing it back into the case.

Step 11

The left speaker will be on your righthand side when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the logic board.

Step 12

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the left speaker to the case.
If your T3 bit feels a bit too loose, you may need to use a T4.

Step 13

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the black pull tab on the speaker's stretch-release adhesive until you can grip it with your fingers.

Step 14

Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a heated iOpener, a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

Step 15

Remove the left speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of replacement adhesive on its underside before placing it back into the case.

Step 16

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad cable cover.

Step 17

Remove the trackpad cable cover.

Step 18

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

Step 19

The trackpad cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
Carefully peel the trackpad cable off of the battery.
Alternatively, you can gently slide an opening pick under the cable to separate the adhesive, being very careful not to damage the battery.

Step 20

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.6 mm screws securing the battery tray to the case.

I think I lost these two battery tray screws somehow, but they don't seem super critical. Any way to get replacements?

Bowen Dwelle -

Step 21

The MacBook's battery cells are attached to a metal tray as a complete assembly, which is adhered to the case with a total of six stretch-release adhesive strips.
Don't attempt to remove the battery cells from their metal backing tray.
On the left side of the MacBook, use a pair of tweezers to peel back the three black pull tabs on the battery's stretch-release adhesive strips until you can grip them with your fingers.

Step 22

Grab an adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull it out from underneath the battery.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the battery.
Repeat for the two remaining adhesive strips on the battery's left side.

What happens if you don't put this tape back the way it was? Can it cause the battery to have any sort of issue?

Jesus Varela -

I dont know but Im doing the same thing. On mine its in there pretty good without any tape. The two screws are holding it in place so as long as its not flapping around I cant see an issue. Its a used battery so I dont want to tape it back in.

Sean Love -

Can I replace the strips under the battery with the same suggested adhesive tape (Tesa 61395) as the speakers?

Lauren Short -

Step 23

Repeat and remove the three adhesive strips from the right side of the battery.
If any of the six adhesive strips broke during removal, you can use a plastic card to finish separating the battery tray from the case.

Step 24

Remove the battery assembly.
If you're installing a new battery, follow the calibration procedure:
Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours.
Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery.
When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.
Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

On boot after reinstallation, the fans go crazy during the Apple logo/progress bar, and the bar is very slow. Machine unuseable. I've reset SMC to no avail. Any other ideas?

matt -

Solved my own problem: I didn't have the battery connector pushed in far enough. Its edge really sits flush with the containing latch, though it isn't really obvious from the way it connects.

matt -

Matt, glad to hear you got it sorted! Thanks for giving an update on your comment—connectors can be tricky! Hopefully it helps other users that have the same problem in the future. Happy fixing!

Carsten Frauenheim -

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tape covering the microphone cable connector.

Step 26

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector.

Step 27

Slide the microphone cable out of its connector.
If possible, grip the cable by the tape, not by the cable itself.

Step 28

Slide an opening pick underneath the microphone cable to separate it from the upper case.
The cable is secured with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the pick. Lightly heat the microphone assembly using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 29

Slide an opening pick underneath the microphone closest to the center of the MacBook to slice through the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
Lift up to pry the microphone out of its recess in the case.

Step 30

Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully pry one of the remaining microphones out of its recess in the upper case.
If the adhesive is stubborn, apply heat to the microphone to soften the adhesive.
Don't force the spudger under the microphone or you risk ripping the cable.
Remove the third and final microphone from the case.

Step 31

Remove the microphone array.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

136128 Reputation

MacBook Air 13" Late 2020 Microphone Array Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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