MacBook Air 13" Late 2020 USB-C Board Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 38

MacBook Air 13" Late 2020 USB-C Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

10 - 30 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the USB-C board in a Late 2020 MacBook Air (M1).

Tools

Parts

MacBook Air 13" (Late 2018-Late 2020) USB-C Board

Step 1

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.3 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.

ESD safe mat, plugged into ground, with a wrist strap, also grounded, are the best best to protect the logic board.

Robin Ray -

Re-Assembly Tip: Before putting the screws back in, snap the lower case on and test to make sure the MacBook powers up. When I first re-assembled, I became very nervous I did something wrong because it would not power on. It turns out I just needed to plug the laptop into a power source for it to power up (despite having a good charge before disassembly). It was the perfect way to test the new USB-C ports!

Austin -

Big points to this one, especially for mentioning needing to plug the laptop in. The bottom case needs to be screwed in and laptop needs to be plugged in before it will boot.

Bayden Yazalina -

Wiha 4PL driver for these screws.

Greg Worrel -

Printing out all the images from this Ifixit guide prior to starting and using duct tape help me keep track of screws.

raju midjdeya -

This Guide has a high chance of not working if an aftermarket display is used as MAC serialization was introduced post ~2023. Likely you will need an original MAC screen replacement and to serialize the display for it to work.

Tron Computers -

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Los tornillos se ruedan fácilmente :(

Mishelle Cerón -

Step 3

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
Make sure the metal arm is completely free of the locking tab before lifting the battery connector. The metal locking arm should easily unlatch.
Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, press the battery connector straight down into its socket, making sure it sits flush within the socket.
If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.

Reassembly: I had difficulty going straight down. The connector has some angled edges that made it difficult. Instead, I slotted the wire side in first, then rocked it forward towards the hinge into position.

Sean K -

If having difficulty in flipping the bar up, place the machine vertical and not that there is a small “locking nib” that the bar has to clear. You may have to give the bar honest persuasion to clear the nib.

Harry Dulcamara -

The bar can lock backwards making it very hard to even see let alone move. Great care is needed to shift it. I had to use two thumbnails, one on each side, then once flipped forward it takes more push than I expected to clip it in place. Ensure the plug is fully seated first !

Simon Anthony -

As others commented, it can be hard to click the battery connector back into place. First make sure the bar is not underneath the connector. Then, turning the computer so the connector pins are facing you (LCD hinge end closer to you) can also make it easier to position the connector on top and then click it into place.

madmaxmedia -

Some replacement batteries have a retainer bar that differs from OEM batteries. I had to swap the retainer bar to properly secure it under the "locking nib" to ensure it didn't release on its own (before it could freely swing).

Anthony Collier -

Step 4

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the USB-C connector cover.
If your T3 bit feels a bit too loose, you may need to use a T4.

Step 5

Remove the USB-C connector cover.

Step 6

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

This step is hard to reverse. We're having trouble plugging into logic board so it stays in place, as the piece was when I removed it.

Janet -

Step 7

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the USB-C board.

I had to go to a T 4 in the USB-C board.

gregels -

Step 8

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the USB-C board.

An dieser Stelle habe ich aufgegeben. Das Bauteil läßt sich nicht herausheben, ohne die USB-Anschlüsse abzubrechen. Es ist nicht genug Platz vorhanden. Weiß jemand eine Lösung hierfür?

Gino -

Entschuldigen Sie mein Deutsch, aber diese Anschlüsse sollten ohne Widerstand herausgleiten. Überprüfen Sie, ob dies die richtige Anleitung für Ihr Modell ist.

Carsten Frauenheim -

Ja, ich habe ein Macbook Air M1, 13,3", gekauft im Juli/ 2022. Das ist dann technisch ein MacBook Air Ende 2020.

Alles hat wie in der Anleitung beschrieben funktioniert und sieht auch identisch aus. Lediglich die Entnahme funktioniert nicht. Der Unterschied zum MacBook Air Anfang 2020 ist wohl nur der Klebestreifen auf dem Anschlußsteckers des Akkus. Deshalb passt bei mir nur die Anleitung für das Air Ende 2020.

Gino -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

136128 Reputation

21 comments

This guide was excellent. Easy & painless, even though it was the most complex repair I've taken on myself. Thanks for saving time & money.

Zachary Barber -

Do you sell the screws for the usb c board? I have lost one of the 1.4mm torx screws which hold down the connector of the usb board.

Gurmeet Sahotay - 22/10/22

This was quite easy, thanks so much Carsten!

Michael C Crotty -

where can I get the part for my computer MacBook Air M1 2020 Usb-C connector model A2337 EMC 3598 serial CO2FN1R2Q6LC.

Where can I buy it online....

Resana Laucast -

If you're in selected countries in Europe or the USA, you can now order this part from Apple directly using their Self Service Repair store :)

Alex Firth -

No need to get it from Apple Self service. Much easier from here:

https://techtoro.io/macbook-air/genuine-...

GENUINE INPUT/OUTPUT (USB-C) BOARD A2337

Product Code: 923-03553

Macrepair SF -

Worked well. Took about 30 mins because I think the power connector didn't go on fully the first time. Had to plug it into a power adapter first before it would turn on by itself with the power button.

M. G. -

yes, that is always like that. After battery is disconnected, next laptop start must be with charging cable.

Janči Kapusta -

Both of us followed this guide and it seems not to have worked. I've done successful repairs in 2015 and earlier, but this 2020 computer is much harder to work with. The step that likely went wrong was plugging the new part into the logic board. It was also tricky to get the old part out and new part in.

Janet -

Perfect thank you, I would say this guide made the process easy not moderate. Great saving fixing the port myself. Thank you again

Oliver Rider -

Anyone have suggestions on how to get the USB-C module out (step 8)? It is a little hard to remove it given the angle and how tight everything is.

Jeremy -

I just ordered my replacement from iFixit's Amazon store here for $15.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085WC4212?psc...

If you pull the ribbon connector up a bit and just jimmy it while lifting up and out it'll come out.. but it is in there quite snugly. A nice easy replacement though! Found that I too had to plug in a USB-C power source to boot the first time after putting everything back together.

kdupuis77 -

Awesome, I just replaced the USB C on M1 Air, took just 10 minutes. Thanks a lot.

Janči Kapusta -

success! awesome guide!

i recorded this fix and uploaded it to my YouTube channel. if anyone's interested: https://youtu.be/bUd97uoBMBk

adamesch -

The Early 2020 MacBook Air USB-C board is compatible!! ( By some miracle )

I cannibalized a non-functioning MacBook Air E2020 to do this.

Jonathan -

Guide was easy to follow - just found removing and inserting the USB-C board itself a little fiddly, but some gentle persuasion sorted it in the end. Total cost of repair - including the tools from ifixit - was a quarter of what I was quoted by a repair shop

Mehdi -

Excellent guide! An easy fix, even with those teeeeeny tiiiiiiny weird-head screws. (Apple? Srsly?)

Franko -

I did the repair but noticed that the problem extends to the logic board the female port where you connect the usb card has a tiny burn on it. Is there any way to replace the female port that is on the logic board without having to replace the entire logic board? If so name or serial number of part and either a link to a tutorial/ or video of this repair would be massively appreciated. Thanks!

Simon Heerdegen - 11/04/24

Replacing the USB-C board may fix the issue, sometimes this may not works.

One of the USB-C port on my laptop only deliver power but no data transmission. I installed a new board but the issue exists. I assume the Thunderbolt or USB IC was damaged.

Ennis -

Thank you so much! Everything worked just fine and I’m so happy that my computer is working fine again with minimal cost and time spent.

David -

Nice an easy. Well done!

Egbert Kappert -