MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Heat Sink Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan
  • Comments: 35
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Heat Sink Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

21

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

The heat sink helps keep the processor cool and happy.

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    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

    How to tell all screws apart?

    Spudgeboy -

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    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Use a spudger to pry the fan connector out of its seat, and straight up off the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!

    Ron Hudson -

    Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!

    lucasjmenzie -

    i recommend not to use the spudger. you damage more than by unpluggin the plug by hand. just simply pull the cable close to the plug of the old fan softly upwards out. the plug than comes easily out. put the new fan in and push the new plug by hand in. it is much easier than using a spudger. i also started with a spudger but nearly broke the plug out, so i watched a youtube tutorial and learned about it…

    andre -

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 6.5 mm Phillips.

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips.

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    • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

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    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock, and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket, towards the DC-in side of the computer.

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    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 7 mm Phillips.

    • One 5 mm Phillips.

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

    Mine are Torx and got an extra clamp for the cable, just above the left screw

    Martin -

    If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).

    When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.

    Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.

    Mike -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.

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    • In this step you will disconnect the camera cable. Most machines will have a small self adhesive plastic retainer stuck to the logic board to keep the connector in place. Before disconnecting the cable, be sure this retainer is moved out of the way.

    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.

    Justin Jett -

    I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.

    It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...

    But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(

    If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...

    Problem solved! YAY!

    PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!

    simbass -

    Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.

    Vladimir -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.

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    • Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.

    amiller770 -

    Quote from amiller770:

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).

    I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.

    Leo Bodnar -

    As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!

    Matthew Rankin -

    Inserting the ribbon cable for the keyboard was really difficult, but i was able to get it in using a piece of tape and pulling it up, just like the tape on the keyboard backlight.

    Kelly Legner -

    Using a piece of tape is sheer genius Kelly. My mom once said her definition of genius was an idea that, when you hear it, you say to yourself, “now why didn’t I think of that?” But you never would have thought of it. Brava (or bravo) Kelly!

    JonnyLine -

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    • Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

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    • Remove the following screws:

    • Five 3.1 mm Phillips.

    • Two 3.9 mm Phillips.

    • Two 7 mm Phillips from the DC-in board.

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    • Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw.

    • One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw.

    • Lift the battery out of the upper case.

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    • Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.

    • Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-in board that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to rip out the fragile connector plug of the microphone assembly.

    When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.

    amiller770 -

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    • Remove the four 8.5 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • A spring is held under each of these screws. Be careful not to lose it.

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    • Gently lift the heat sink off the logic board.

    • When you mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. We have a guide that makes replacing the thermal paste easy.

    As the pic in step 22 reveals, the Apple factories in Asia apply a huge amount of thermal heat sink paste goop to the top surface of the processors. The need for a special primer on this reapplication procedure (other than the removal and cleaning of the old paste from the processors' surfaces) is over-rated.

    dcelander -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

701292 Reputation

4 comments

After completing this process and reapplying thermal paste on my CPU and GPU, CPU Core 1 & 2 temperature sensors were not being read. As a result, my fan was not operating and the CPU diode temperature jumped to >100C.

To fix this I had to reset the SMC (System Management Controller). For this model it is done by holding done Shift+Control+Option and pressing the power button while the computer is off.

I have OS X 10.8.5 running. I also replaced my battery at the same time as reapplying thermal paste. No idea if that affected the temperature sensors.

Tyler Ogden -

Followed this guide to change thermal paste on CPU & GPU, all worked fine, now I have >10°C difference. I had a problem on a screw that wore out, solved by cutting a piece of motherboard. I recommend following this guide alongside a youtube guide video, if you are not sure on how to unplug some cables (like in which direction to pull). And as always, double (triple possibly) check that you have reconnected all cables, otherwise you’ll have to go through all of this again.

Pietro Spadaccino -

Well, my computer no longer turns on...reconnected all the cables, was very cautious and followed all steps and now it won't power on...it will charge, just won't power on anymore

Jarvis Karchewski -

me 2 Jarvis.any luck?

TheDoit123 -