MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Subwoofer & Right Speaker Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan
  • Comments: 28
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Subwoofer & Right Speaker Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

14

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Is the right side of your MacBook Pro mute? Use this guide to replace the subwoofer and right speaker.

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    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

    How to tell all screws apart?

    Spudgeboy -

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    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector straight up off the logic board. Be careful not to lift the socket. Pull the connector toward the optical drive.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Step 4 is correct as stated (pull up, not slide out). You'll definitely see this when you put it back in place, pushing down in socket not sliding in. Just be careful and use spudger (gently!) underneath wires as shown.

    jgcolt -

    What is the best way to solder this back onto the board? I did it once 5 years ago, but that was my first and only time soldering. I know there is a soldering guide, and I have read it. Could someone tell me please the best way to reconnect the right speaker/subwoofer cable to the board, referencing the soldering guide?

    Leslie L. Gordon -

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    • It will be necessary to slide the small clear plastic cable retainer (boxed in red) glued to the logic board out of the way before disconnecting the camera cable. Be careful not to break any components off the board as you slide it away from the camera cable connector.

    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.

    karenz -

    The retainer for the camera cable may be black as well as clear. It is much easier to remove and reinstall the retainer if the DVD drive cable is removed first.

    MikeG -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case. The right one is 5 mm and the left 3.9 mm.

    • The longer of the two screws is on the right.

    For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.

    Aaron B -

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    • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

    • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

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    • Remove the two 8.4 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The right screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

    There's another type of bridge, black, with an extra piece of metal to hold the cable. You don't have to remove this bridge to unmount the optical drive.

    Martin -

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    • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

    • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

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    • Peel back the small piece of black tape covering the right speaker cable.

    • Be careful, as the power button ribbon cable is directly under this piece of tape.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker up off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    I recommend you to use for this step an opening tool instead the spudger. The jimmy is a good option

    Toni -

    The new speakers don’t come with adhesive, so some double sided tape is handy. Also, the right speaker cable can be rather long, so some tape is useful to carefully loop it out the way.

    Steven Taylor -

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    • Lift the subwoofer and right speaker assembly out of the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

701292 Reputation

4 comments

Thank you iFixit

Chamika Anuruddha -

Thanks ifixit for the super guide. I followed the steps and now my mac works properly again!

Toni -

Thank you iFixit!

I too snapped the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector right off the mother board, but with patience and a little research, I learned how to solder the thing back on. How about a Warning!!!!! inserted at that step.? I only saw that there were comments AFTER I gingerly tried to pry the connector as instructed. It would help to show how the parts fit together as is done with the fan cable connector. Those instructions (the fan cable connector instructions), helped me better understand what I was prying apart and gave me an idea of how best to do it, and how the speaker/subwoofer cable connector connected to the board, as well as how to position the “pads.”

So, I learned from my mistake, which is a good thing. Nonetheless, I would have preferred to learn BEFORE I snapped off the cable connector, LOL!

Thanks Again for this incredible site.

Leslie L. Gordon -

My connection did not hold. I asked above what the best way is to solder or reattach the right speaker/subwoofer cable connector back onto the board. I saw the soldering guide, but have only soldered once. Any specific guidance on how to reattach this cable would be SO APPRECIATED, especially referencing the soldering guide. Visuals are extremely important to me.

Leslie L. Gordon -