MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Optical Drive Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan
  • Comments: 27
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Optical Drive Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

13

Time Required

20 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Replace the optical drive in your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.

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    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

    How to tell all screws apart?

    Spudgeboy -

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    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the subwoofer connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge. This step is optional and is not required.

    • Remove the soft padding that may be on top and gently pull the connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

    tomhart -

    Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it

    Steven Taylor -

    It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

    Rachel -

    Alors je déconseille très fortement de toucher ce connecteur, il est extrêmement fragile. De plus, cela n’a pas d’incidence sur la suite des opérations

    Laskoni -

    The author needs to go back through this guide and correct lots of order mistakes. The fan was removed in steps 3-5 yet it’s still being shown installed in steps 19-22.

    plink53 -

    The 4-pin push connector for the sub-woofer is near impossible to reconnect

    It mates with a female connector that sits on top of 4 tiny solder points (it's held on by a spot of glue, I believe), and when applying ANY pressure to connect, the side clip(s) will snap off. Then the connector itself will become unglued. It would be simple enough to connect the 2 parts, then place a drop of glue on the logic board after positioning it above the solder points, but the female connector broke apart in my hand. So now screwed, with no way to connect sub/ R speaker without installing another logic board. Fan connector looks to be exactly the same

    Peter Watkins -

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    • It will be necessary to slide the small clear plastic cable retainer (boxed in red) glued to the logic board out of the way before disconnecting the camera cable. Be careful not to break any components off the board as you slide it away from the camera cable connector.

    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and can be easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

    Massimo C -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive connector straight up off the logic board.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

    On my computer, the 3.8 mm screw was near the midpoint of the subwoofer (left-to-right in the photo) and near the bottom. The 5 mm screw was top right of the subwoofer.

    BobG -

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    • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

    • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

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    • Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

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    • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

    • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

    Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.

    JASON CULP -

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    • Remove the optical drive cable by pulling it straight away from the optical drive.

    • This connector is particularly deep, so be sure to pull away from the drive at the center of the connector.

    • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

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    • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

701292 Reputation

2 comments

I removed my optical drive without disconnecting the hard drive or anything else. I just unplugged the optical drive from the board, unscrewed the speaker, and very slowly removed the drive after taking out the three screws holding it in place. I was discouraged at first to remove my optical drive because it looked a little too tricky for me from the directions, but it was actually quite easy! I'm going to be interested to see if pulling the optical drive results in any noticeable improvement in battery performance on my 13" 2.4GHz MBP! I doubt it haha

T Buckle -

I skipped down to the step with 3 screws holding the optical drive, removed them, gently pried out the optical cable, and slid out the optical drive (at a slight 10 degree angle)!! Thank you!

Ary Safian -