Samsung Older French Door Refrigerator - Freezer Defrost High Limit Thermostat Test and Replacement

Written By: Bill Gilbert

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Samsung Older French Door Refrigerator - Freezer Defrost High Limit Thermostat Test and Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

55 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

The high limit thermostat is located on a bracket right next to the evaporator coils in the freezer behind the evaporator cover.

The thermostat serves as a line of defense in the event that the defrost element will not shut off. If the temperature gets too high, it opens and shuts off the defrost heating element.

If this unit fails open (the usual problem) the defrost element will not function and the defrost cycle will not work. This thermostat is intended to open and stay open so the part must be replaced if it fails. The opening temperature is high enough that testing for function is not recommended since it only functions once.

This guide requires a multimeter—if you’re new to using one, check out our video tutorial on multimeters. You might also want to take a look at this guide on using a multimeter, as well.

This guide was created using a Samsung model RFG298HDRS French door refrigerator manufactured in 2013. Other older Samsung French door units with dual evaporators should be similar.

Tools

Step 1

Unplug your refrigerator before you begin your repair.
If you are testing or repairing the following items, you may also need to shut off and disconnect the water supply:
Condenser fan motor
Compressor motor and thermal overload device
Water supply valve assembly

Step 2

Open the freezer drawer.

Step 3

Pull out the upper freezer drawer.
Lift the front edge of the drawer.
Remove the drawer by lifting it up and out of the freezer compartment.

Step 4

Unclip the basket hinge retainer by tilting the rear edge up and remove it from the drawer rail.
Release the small drawer basket and lift it up and out.

Step 5

Lift the drawer basket out of the drawer frame and remove it.

Step 6

Use a 3/8" socket wrench, box wrench, or open end wrench to remove the bolts securing the drawer front to the right drawer slide.
Repeat the process for the left drawer slide.

Step 7

Lift the drawer front upwards to free it from the drawer slides.
Remove the drawer front.

Step 8

Rotate the slide connector rod until you can access the retaining pin.
Use a pair of long nose pliers to squeeze the retaining pin shank to release it.

Step 9

Pull the retaining pin out of the hole.
Slide the connecting rod to the right to free the left end of the rod.
Remove the rod by lifting it upward and sliding it back to the left.

Step 10

Use a #2 Phillips driver to remove the retaining screws.
Two views of the same screws are shown for clarity. There are not four screws.

Step 11

Pull the icemaker forward parallel to the top of the freezer.
This will release the icemaker from the freezer top.
Reposition the icemaker and hold it in one hand to prepare to disconnect it.

Step 12

Grasp the icemaker connector (the one to the front) and squeeze the release tab.
Pull the connector out from the socket.

Step 13

Remove the ice maker.
This view shows the slots that the mounting studs on the freezer top for reference when reassembling.

Step 14

Use a #2 Phillips driver to remove the screws securing the evaporator cover.

Step 15

Lift the evaporator cover from the bottom edge and tilt the edge toward you.

Step 16

Reposition the evaporator cover to allow access to the connections to the right rear.
Don't try to remove the cover yet, as you need to first disconnect the electrical connections to it in the upper right rear of the freezer compartment.

Step 17

Disconnect the connectors by squeezing the release tab on the connector and pulling them free of the sockets.
Support the cover from below so there is not tension on the connections.