Xbox Series X 2TB Galaxy Black Southbridge Board Replacement

Written By: Spencer Day

Comments: 3

Xbox Series X 2TB Galaxy Black Southbridge Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the southbridge board on an Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black edition).

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the console.

Tools

Step 1

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Step 2

For cleaner removal, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the sticker.
Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Step 3

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.

Step 4

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 5

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 6

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

Step 7

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Step 8

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.5 mm pancake screw
Two 8.8 mm screws

are there any 10.5mm wide head screw for the xbox fan for sale because i need a replacement because i accidentally broke mine

GhostMindX9 -

If the 10.5 mm screw isn’t budging, use some pliers to loosen it

Joseph Grant - 07/07/24

Step 9

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

But don’t pull the connectors with tweezers because you will inevitably still damage the cable as you have no grip on the connector and the tweezers will slip.

Leif DeWolf -

Step 10

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reinstallation, note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.
If you're replacing the fan, a new fan might not include the plastic installation bracket, which is attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. This isn't pictured in this guide.

Step 11

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.

Step 12

With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, put the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the "Hello from Seattle" line will be parallel with the device's sides.

Step 13

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.

Step 14

Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
The vibration isolator grips the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you may need to "walk" the isolator off of the drive to slip it off each side.
During reassembly, ensure the vibration isolator is pushed down and around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits flush with the rest of the center chassis.

Step 15

Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.

Step 16

Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
During reassembly, align the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
If the drive is misaligned, the top vibration isolator will not be able to be installed correctly, and the disc reader will be misaligned with the front of the console.

Step 17

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
If the USB port cable feels adhered to the metal chassis, use an apply an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable. Depending on your model of Xbox, you may also need to slide an opening pick under the cable to separate the adhesive.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

Step 20

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Step 21

Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
Depending on your model of Xbox, the adhesive may be on the underside of the cable. If so, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable.

Step 22

The center chassis assembly is aligned to the bottom of the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly, make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.

Step 23

Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.
During reassembly, this is a good point to clean the heatsink fins of any dust, dirt, or debris that may have built up over time. Use a dust blower or compressed air to clear out the fins.

Step 24

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm‑long screws securing the antenna board to the center chassis.

Step 25

Grip the top right corner of the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Step 26

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
Two 13.1 mm‑long screws
One 35 mm‑long screw

Step 27

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Step 28

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Step 29

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Step 30

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the board shield:
Seven 8.7 mm‑long screws
Two 35 mm‑long screws
These screws are very tight and may take significant force to loosen.
One 13 mm‑long screw

Step 31

Hold the power supply cable out of the way and lift the board shield straight up to remove it.

Step 32

Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.

Step 33

Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pinch the power supply's two‑pin power connector, so the locking tab opens outward.
With the locking tab open, lift the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Step 34

Repeat the previous step to disconnect the power supply's 10‑pin connector.

Step 35

Pull the end of the rubber strap down and away from the chassis to unlatch it.

Step 36

Pull the chassis strap off its three alignment posts and unlatch it from the sides of the power supply.
You can leave the strap under the chassis or remove it.
During reassembly, make sure the nubs in the middle of the strap go unto their cutouts on the heat sink fins.

Step 37

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the corners of the power supply:
Three 35 mm‑long silver screws
One 8.7 mm‑long black screw

Step 38

Lift the power supply straight up and remove it.

Step 39

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 8.7 mm‑long screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna board.

Step 40

Don't pull up on the antenna board until it's completely disconnected.
Grip the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
Remove the antenna board.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Step 41

Use your fingers to pinch the locking tab in the center of the interconnect cable connector.
While pinching the tab, insert the flat end of a spudger between the top of the socket and the connector's tab.
Twist the spudger to lift the connector out of its socket until the clip in the center disengages.

Step 42

Use your fingers to pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the interconnect cable connector into its socket and press down on both edges until the connector snaps into place.

Step 43

Lift the center chassis off the motherboard and heatsink assembly, routing the interconnect cable through its cutout.

Step 44

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the seven 8.7 mm‑long screws securing the southbridge board shield.

Step 45

Remove the board shield.

Step 46

Lift up to remove the power supply cable guide from the southbridge board.
During reassembly, insert the post with a tab into its screw hole first before aligning the rest of the cable guide.