Yamaha RX-V800 How to Fix the Volume Knob by Cleaning

I dont have the mental fortitude to take it apart again, so there wont be any pictures. If you would like to put in pictures, go ahead and do so.

The first thing you will need to do is flip the unit over and unscrew six screws directly under the faceplate. Then, unscrew the two top screws, four side screws, and five rear screws. Be sure that you sort the screws out, because by the end of the unscrewing, you will have six different types of screws. If you don't, you're screwed. Pun intended.

Then, pull the sides outwards gently, and then pull backward simultaneously while lifting the case up.

As soon as you remove the cover, you should find three screws closest to the controls on the front of the unit. Unscrew them. Then, carefully pull outward

For your information, these are the same type of screws as the rear screws. Ditto for the six you removed at the bottom.

Simply pull out the volume knob. It may take a bit of effort, so be careful.

Inside you will find a much smaller and longer knob, and a nut which is screwed in the back. Remove that nut. You will see why later.

You are about to remove the button covers for the input buttons. You will find that it is separate from the rest of the buttons on the outside. There are a couple of screws that hold it in. Remove those.

There is another cover for the volume area that is held in by two screws. Remove that cover.

There is one more screw that is nearby it. It is to the right, and is closest to the edge of the unit next to the volume knob. This screw is attaching a metal plate which you will have to remove in the next step. Go ahead and unscrew this.

First, you must take a pencil and trace around the orange metal piece that looks weird. Kinda looks like the letter T. Be sure you trace in the holes. Then, unscrew it. It is held in by one screw.

Then, there is a bracket just next to the orange T that holds in two cards. There are two screws you have to remove in order to remove the bracket.

There are 5 or 6 [someone check this] more screws you have to remove on the right side of the unit. Once of them is inaccessible.

The inaccessible screw is behind a piece of plastic that is held in by circular clips located on the right side of the unit. Take something flat and pry the top clip up. Don't be shy, but don't be hasty. Then rotate it out of the way and unscrew the last screw hidden under it.

Once you remove the last screw, be careful removing the metal plate. Pull up and away from it.

There are at least 6 screws holding in a daughterboard which holds the input selectors, volume potentiometer, and screen. Remove this, but be careful about the wires connecting to the power button. You can remove the cables if you'd like, but it is a pain to put them back together, so I wouldn't recommend it.

One screw is located in the very top left corner of the board (assuming you are looking at the rear of the machine.) The rest are in really tough to reach spots, which is why you have that Phillips Alan Key. You can use that in order to reach those screws without having to remove the cards and heatsink.

You may notice there is a brown wire wrapped around a ribbon cable. DO NOT REMOVE EITHER CABLE. Unwrap it from the ribbon cable.

Alright, now it is time to remove the daughterboard. Be very careful when removing it. You should be able to turn it, then lifting it up above the buttons. If you removed the power button, you should have no problem taking it out and resting it on a different surface. But if not, then have it on top.

If you must, then let it hang from the capacitor that is in the middle of the board.

This is the hardest part of the entire process.

You will see 4 metal tabs holding onto something. These are located on the top right, top left, bottom right, and bottom left. These hold onto each half of the potentiometer. CAREFULLY move those out of the way with either a dull x-acto knife, tweezers, or a flat head screwdriver.

Once you do this, carefully remove the dial. Behind it are three metal rods. DO. NOT. TOUCH. THESE. If you do, they may bend out of shape or break, and then you will have an even bigger problem.

The half you pulled out is a dial with a lot of parts that are conductive, and a lot of parts adjacent to them that are not conductive. Kind of like an optical illusion. The direction in which you turn this will affect the order in which the metal rods will conduct. This is how the volume is changed.

Get a Q-Tip and either electronics cleaner ot Isopropyl Alcohol and clean the reverse side of the dial (the optical illusion part).

When you are done, BE SUPER CAREFUL putting it back together. You should see a metal nub that sticks out. It must be facing upward.

The easiest way I have found works is by using small pliers and squeezing them back into place once the two halves are put together. Then, taking your flat head screwdriver, flattening them down flush with the potentiometer.

Be sure to test the device before putting the case back on. Follow the directions in reverse to reassemble the machine. Congratulations! You should have a working volume control now. If this didn't work, your potentiometer needs to be replaced.

And, if it does, the steps with properly removing the daughterboard are largely the same, only with a soldering gun. And a spare part.