iPhone 16 Pro Max Battery Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 17

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

This guide shows how to remove and replace the battery in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.

iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, or roughly 18–24 months. If your iPhone needs to be charged more often or runs slower, it might be time to replace the battery.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement battery and back glass adhesive to complete this repair.

As of iOS 18.1, battery health works with both genuine and aftermarket replacement batteries.

After your repair, run Repair Assistant to reset the battery metrics.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPhone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your iPhone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.

Step 2

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

Step 4

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?

Mutshidzi Rambau -

Step 5

The next two steps show how to create an initial gap using a suction handle.
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
You can also use an iOpener to heat the back glass. Follow these instructions to heat and apply the iOpener properly.

Step 6

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
If a gap doesn't appear, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 7

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the following steps, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the following areas:
A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Step 8

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
If the adhesive feels difficult to slice, reheat the edge for a minute and try again.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 10

Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.
Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 12

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 14

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.
Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

At this point, the back glass should be free from the frame. If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.
Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.
Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.

Step 16

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Step 17

Lift and remove the battery connector cover.

Step 18

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 19

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Step 20

Lift the back glass connector cover straight up and remove it.

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.

Step 22

Remove the back glass.

Step 23

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
One 2.9 mm‑long screw
One 1.3 mm‑long screw
One 2.4 mm‑long screw

Step 24

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.
Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.

Step 25

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.

Step 26

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

Step 27

Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

Step 28

Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.

Step 29

Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.
Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.

Step 30

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 31

Use the point of a spudger to pivot the corner bracket up.

Step 32

Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Step 33

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.
Be careful not to pry against the battery.
Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 34

Remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Step 35

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker's bottom-right screw hole.
Pry up and remove the loudspeaker.

Step 36

Your iPhone's battery is secured with three stretch release adhesive strips. The next four steps show how to remove them and free your battery.
Be careful not to dent or puncture the battery. Avoid using sharp tools near it.

Step 37

Use the tip of an opening pick to separate a black pull tab from the bottom of the battery.
Use tweezers to help peel the tab away from the battery.
Don't try to pull the tab out from under the battery just yet.

Step 38

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab the pull tab.
Slowly pull the adhesive out from under the battery at as low of an angle as possible.
Give the strip plenty of time to stretch and re-grip it as necessary. Avoid dragging it over the components or cables above the battery.
When the strip becomes too long, wrap it around your tweezers and continue pulling.
If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery. If you can't retrieve it, move onto the next strip.

Step 39

Repeat the procedure with the two remaining adhesive strips.
Carefully bend the lower assembly cable out of the way as needed to access the adhesive strips.

Step 40

If you removed all three stretch release adhesive strips, congratulations! Remove the battery and skip down three steps for reassembly instructions.
If one or more adhesive strips broke, skip to the next step to remove them with isopropyl alcohol.

Step 41

The next two steps show how to remove the battery if the adhesive strips broke.
Lift the bottom edge of the frame to tilt the iPhone.
Use a pipette or a syringe to apply 2–3 drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the battery, close to where each broken adhesive strip came out.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.

Step 42

Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
Pry the battery upwards slowly with steady force. Give the adhesive time to release.
Don't bend or crease the battery. If it feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Once the adhesive loosens, grab and remove the battery.

Step 43

Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.
Depending on your iPhone model, some reassembly photos may have minor visual discrepancies. The procedure, however, will be correct for your iPhone.

Step 44

Remove any remaining adhesive from the battery recess. Wipe the frame surface with a lint-free cloth and a few drops of isopropyl alcohol.

Step 45

Temporarily connect your new battery and place it in its recess to check that the cable reaches the socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the battery from the logic board.

Step 46

Peel the adhesive liner away from the battery.
If your new battery doesn't have adhesive installed, follow this guide to apply new stretch release adhesive strips, or use thin, double-sided tape to secure it.

Step 47

The battery adhesive is very sticky! Be careful as you align the battery in its recess—once it sticks, you won't be able to realign it.
Carefully align and lower the battery into its recess.
Use your fingers to press firmly against the battery for ten seconds to bond it to the frame.

Step 48

Angle the bottom edge of the loudspeaker towards the frame.
Press the loudspeaker into its recess.

Step 49

Install the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Step 50

Lay the Taptic Engine in its recess.

Step 51

Use your finger to pivot the corner bracket down into place.

Step 52

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 53

Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.

Step 54

Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

Step 55

Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.

Step 56

Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.
Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.

Step 57

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
One 2.9 mm‑long screw
One 1.3 mm‑long screw
One 2.4 mm‑long screw

Step 58

Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.

Step 59

Work around the fragile grounding clips as you're cleaning the frame. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.
If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a hair dryer or heat gun and try again.

Step 60

If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.

Step 61

Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.
Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.

Step 62

Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
Use features such as the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.

Step 63

Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.
If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.

Step 64

Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.
When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.

Step 65

Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.
If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.
If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, gently pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.
If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.
If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.

Step 66

Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
Don't press too hard, or you'll stretch and deform the adhesive.

Step 67

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.
At this point, you may still have liner covering the perimeter, which prevents the adhesive from accidentally sticking to anything while you're reassembling your iPhone. Don't remove these small release liners just yet.

Step 68

Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.

Step 69

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.

Step 70

Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.
This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone. Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.
If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.
If you've replaced the logic board and the screen fails to turn on, you'll need to follow the screen guide to manually connect the display connector.

Step 71

Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Step 72

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Step 73

Align the battery connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Step 74

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Step 75

Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
As you remove the liners, make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.
Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

Step 76

Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.
Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.

Step 77

Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.

Step 78

Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Step 79

Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.
Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.
Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.
Alternatively, you can use vise clamps around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.

Step 80

Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.
The coins may leave a slight impression on the bottom book cover, so don't use anything valuable.
Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.
The pressure will help activate the adhesive.

Step 81

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

Conclusion

After your repair, run Apple's Repair Assistant. Navigate to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the onscreen prompts.

Calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

282916 Reputation

iPhone 16 Pro Max Battery Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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