How to Replace the Thermal Putty & Thermal Paste in your Xbox Series X (2 TB Galaxy Black)

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 5

How to Replace the Thermal Putty & Thermal Paste in your Xbox Series X (2 TB Galaxy Black)

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the thermal putty and thermal paste in your Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black).

The thermal paste in your Xbox will dry out over time and will affect the processor's cooling and overall performance. The thermal putty is more durable, but it can still dry out or tear during disassembly. Follow this guide to replace the thermal paste, putty, or both.

You need to replace the thermal paste every time you remove the motherboard. This guide doubles as a motherboard replacement.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Step 2

For cleaner removal, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the sticker.
Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Recommend using a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive.

Crash -

Microsoft can void your warranty. They can use whatever excuse if it is sent in because you opened it and you cannot prove you didn’t damage it.

DirtyD -

Step 3

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.

Step 4

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 5

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 6

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

Step 7

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Step 8

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.5 mm pancake screw
Two 8.8 mm screws

are there any 10.5mm wide head screw for the xbox fan for sale because i need a replacement because i accidentally broke mine

GhostMindX9 -

If the 10.5 mm screw isn’t budging, use some pliers to loosen it

Joseph Grant - 07/07/24

Step 9

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

But don’t pull the connectors with tweezers because you will inevitably still damage the cable as you have no grip on the connector and the tweezers will slip.

Leif DeWolf -

Step 10

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reinstallation, note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.
If you're replacing the fan, a new fan might not include the plastic installation bracket, which is attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. This isn't pictured in this guide.

Step 11

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.

Step 12

With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, put the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the "Hello from Seattle" line will be parallel with the device's sides.

Step 13

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.

Step 14

Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
The vibration isolator grips the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you may need to "walk" the isolator off of the drive to slip it off each side.
During reassembly, ensure the vibration isolator is pushed down and around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits flush with the rest of the center chassis.

Step 15

Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.

Step 16

Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
During reassembly, align the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
If the drive is misaligned, the top vibration isolator will not be able to be installed correctly, and the disc reader will be misaligned with the front of the console.

Step 17

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
If the USB port cable feels adhered to the metal chassis, use an apply an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable. Depending on your model of Xbox, you may also need to slide an opening pick under the cable to separate the adhesive.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

Step 20

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Step 21

Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
Depending on your model of Xbox, the adhesive may be on the underside of the cable. If so, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable.

Step 22

The center chassis assembly is aligned to the bottom of the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly, make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.

Step 23

Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.
During reassembly, this is a good point to clean the heatsink fins of any dust, dirt, or debris that may have built up over time. Use a dust blower or compressed air to clear out the fins.

Step 24

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm‑long screws securing the antenna board to the center chassis.

Step 25

Grip the top right corner of the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Step 26

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
Two 13.1 mm‑long screws
One 35 mm‑long screw

Step 27

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Step 28

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Step 29

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Step 30

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the board shield:
Seven 8.7 mm‑long screws
Two 35 mm‑long screws
These screws are very tight and may take significant force to loosen.
One 13 mm‑long screw

Step 31

Hold the power supply cable out of the way and lift the board shield straight up to remove it.

Step 32

Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.

Step 33

Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pinch the power supply's 10‑pin power connector, so the locking tab opens outward.
With the locking tab open, lift the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Step 34

Use your fingers to pinch the locking tab in the center of the interconnect cable connector.
While pinching the tab, insert the flat end of a spudger between the top of the socket and the connector's tab.
Twist the spudger to lift the connector out of its socket until the clip in the center disengages.

Step 35

Use your fingers to pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the interconnect cable connector into its socket and press down on both edges until the connector snaps into place.

Step 36

Pull the rubber strap down and away from the chassis to unlatch it.

Step 37

Pull the chassis strap off its three alignment posts and unlatch it from the sides of the power supply.
You can leave the strap under the chassis or remove it.
During reassembly, make sure the nubs in the middle of the strap go unto their cutouts on the heat sink fins.

Step 38

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 35 mm‑long silver screws from the power supply—leave the fourth black screw in place.

Step 39

Grip the edges of the center chassis (not the power supply) and lift it off the motherboard and heatsink assembly, routing the interconnect cable through its cutout.

Step 40

Pinch the locking tab on the interconnect cable on the motherboard and use the flat end of a spudger to disengage the clip.
Use your fingers to pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the #1—SOC side of interconnect cable connector into its socket so the locking tab is facing outward. Then, press down on the edges of the connector until it snaps into place.

Step 41

Only loosen and tighten the APU tension bracket screws a few turns at a time in an "X" pattern. For example: top left → bottom right → top right → bottom left.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four 12.4 mm‑long APU tension bracket screws.

Step 42

Don't move the APU bracket side to side, or you may damage the delicate surface‑mounted components underneath it. Only lift straight up.
Use your fingers to lift the APU bracket straight up and remove it.
During reassembly, set the bracket into place so the black pieces of plastic are facing the short edges of the motherboard—the piece of plastic with a circular hole (not oblong) should be closer to the SSD socket. Use this photo as a reference.

Step 43

Depending on the condition of the thermal paste and putty, the board may be bonded to the heatsink assembly. If you can't easily remove the board, use a spudger to gently lift the edges of the board to separate it.
Use your fingers to lift the motherboard straight up and off the heatsink to remove it.
During reassembly, carefully place the board onto the heatsink with the APU facing down. Remember, there's exposed thermal paste on the bottom of the board, so use the alignment pegs to orient it correctly. If you have to reposition the board, it may smear the thermal paste.

Step 44

Check the condition of the thermal putty—it'll be on the heatsink and/or the motherboard.
If any pieces are damaged or dried out, follow the next four steps to remove and replace them.
If you're only replacing the thermal paste, skip to this step.

Step 45

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the damaged or deteriorated thermal pad.
Be careful around any small surface-mounted components that might be hidden under the thermal pad. Work slowly to avoid accidentally prying them off.

Step 46

Use isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint-free microfiber cloth to remove any thermal putty residue.
If you have to work near the small resistors, use cotton swabs instead.

Step 47

To prevent the thermal putty from sticking to your fingers, consider wearing nitrile gloves.
Grab a small piece of thermal putty. Refer to the size of the thermal pad you're replacing for how much you need.

Step 48

Roll the thermal putty into a ball.
Place the thermal putty where the damaged thermal pad was, making sure it's centered over the component—in this case a memory chip.
Optionally, you can use the flat end of a spudger (or an included applicator) to spread the thermal putty over the surface of the component.
When you reattach the heat sink, you'll compress the thermal putty and it'll spread the ball out.

Step 49

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to the processor and use a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth to wipe away any residue.
If you have to work near the small resistors, use cotton swabs instead.

Step 50

Repeat the previous step for the thermal paste on the heat sink.
You can use a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste on the heat sink if it's too dried out.

Step 51

Apply a small bead of thermal paste to the center of the APU.
Follow this guide in reverse order starting with this step to reattach the heat sink. Placing the heat sink back on the processor will evenly spread the thermal paste (and thermal putty if applicable) and bond both parts together.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

163004 Reputation

How to Replace the Thermal Putty & Thermal Paste in your Xbox Series X (2 TB Galaxy Black)

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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