Xbox Series X (Digital Edition) Motherboard Removal (Thermal Paste/Putty)

Written By: Spencer Day

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Xbox Series X (Digital Edition) Motherboard Removal (Thermal Paste/Putty)

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the motherboard in your Xbox Series X (Digital Edition) gaming console.

You can also use this guide to clean and reapply thermal paste in your Xbox.

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your console.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Two stickers cover the back panel screws. You can remove the stickers without heating them, though it makes them much easier to remove cleanly.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the smaller sticker near the bottom of the back panel for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer to heat the sticker.

Step 2

Use a pair of angled tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Step 3

Use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the larger sticker near the center of the back panel.

Step 4

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape up a corner of the larger sticker until you can grip it with a pair of blunt tweezers.
Use blunt tweezers to peel back the sticker to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Step 5

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.

Step 6

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 7

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 8

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

Step 9

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Step 10

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.3 mm‑long pancake screw
Two 9 mm‑long screws

Step 11

Use your fingernails or a pair of angled tweezers to firmly grip the edges of the fan cable connector.
Grip your tweezers close the connector to get a better grip.
Pull the connector straight out of the socket to disconnect it.
If you're having trouble, gently rock the connector side to side to loosen it.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

Step 12

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reassembly:
Before installing the fan, make sure it's clean! Use a dust blower or compressed air to blow off any dust or debris, and wipe the fan clean with a clean cloth.
Use a finger to keep the fan blades steady—it makes them easier to clean.
Note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.

Step 13

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the locking tab holding the base to the shell.
Keep the locking tab held open for the next step.

Step 14

With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, put the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the Hello from Seattle line will be parallel with the device's sides.

Step 15

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Step 16

The USB port cable is secured to the chassis with two pieces of mild adhesive.
Use an iOpener or a hair dryer to heat the USB port cable.

Step 17

Slide an opening pick under the USB port cable to separate the adhesive securing it.
During reassembly, use thin double‑sided adhesive to secure the cable. If there's adhesive left and it's still sticky, you can reuse it. If you have a new cable, check it for pre‑installed adhesive and remove any liners.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Move the USB port cable out of the way of the chassis.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

Step 20

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm‑long green screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Step 21

The center chassis assembly is aligned to the bottom of the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly:
Make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.
Use the alignment pegs and cutouts to properly orient the chassis in the shell:
Two pegs on the chassis with cutouts on the bottom of the shell.
Three pegs in the shell with cutouts on the chassis.

Step 22

Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.
During reassembly, this is a good point to clean the heatsink fins of any dust, dirt, or debris that may have built up over time. Use a dust blower or compressed air to clear out the fins.

Step 23

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm‑long screws securing the antenna board to the center chassis.

Step 24

Grip the top right corner of the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Step 25

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
Two 13.1 mm‑long screws
One 35 mm‑long screw

Step 26

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Step 27

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Step 28

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Step 29

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the board shield:
Seven 8.7 mm‑long screws
Two 35 mm‑long screws
These screws are very tight and may take significant force to loosen.
One 13 mm‑long screw

Step 30

Hold the power supply cable out of the way and lift the board shield straight up to remove it.

Step 31

Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.

Step 32

Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pinch the power supply's 10‑pin power connector, so the locking tab opens outward.
With the locking tab open, lift the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Step 33

Use your fingers to pinch the locking tab in the center of the interconnect cable connector.
While pinching the tab, insert the flat end of a spudger between the top of the socket and the connector's tab.
Twist the spudger to lift the connector out of its socket until the clip in the center disengages.

Step 34

Use your fingers to pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the interconnect cable connector into its socket and press down on both edges until the connector snaps into place.

Step 35

Pull the rubber strap down and away from the chassis to unlatch it.

Step 36

Pull the chassis strap off its three alignment posts and unlatch it from the sides of the power supply.
You can leave the strap under the chassis or remove it.
During reassembly, make sure the nubs in the middle of the strap go unto their cutouts on the heat sink fins.

Step 37

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 35 mm‑long silver screws from the power supply—leave the fourth black screw in place.

Step 38

Grip the edges of the center chassis (not the power supply) and lift it off the motherboard and heatsink assembly, routing the interconnect cable through its cutout.

Step 39

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 5.1 mm‑long screw securing the SSD.
With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.

Step 40

Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

Step 41

Pinch the locking tab on the interconnect cable on the motherboard and use the flat end of a spudger to disengage the clip.
Use your fingers to pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the #1—SOC side of interconnect cable connector into its socket so the locking tab is facing outward. Then, press down on the edges of the connector until it snaps into place.

Step 42

Only loosen and tighten the APU tension bracket screws a few turns at a time in an "X" pattern. For example: top left → bottom right → top right → bottom left.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four 12.4 mm‑long APU tension bracket screws.

Step 43

Don't move the APU bracket side to side, or you may damage the delicate surface‑mounted components underneath it. Only lift straight up.
Use your fingers to lift the APU bracket straight up and remove it.
During reassembly, set the bracket into place so the black pieces of plastic are facing the short edges of the motherboard—the piece of plastic with a circular hole (not oblong) should be closer to the SSD socket. Use this photo as a reference.

Step 44

Depending on the condition of the thermal paste and putty, the board may be bonded to the heatsink assembly. If you can't easily remove the board, use a spudger to gently lift the edges of the board to separate it.
Use your fingers to lift the motherboard straight up and off the heatsink to remove it.
During reassembly, carefully place the board onto the heatsink with the APU facing down. Remember, there's exposed thermal paste on the bottom of the board, so use the alignment pegs to orient it correctly. If you have to reposition the board, it may smear the thermal paste.

Step 45

Check the condition of the thermal putty—it'll be on the heatsink and/or the motherboard.
If any pieces are damaged or dried out, follow the next four steps to remove and replace them.
If you're only replacing the thermal paste, skip to this step.

Step 46

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the damaged or deteriorated thermal pad.
Be careful around any small surface-mounted components that might be hidden under the thermal pad. Work slowly to avoid accidentally prying them off.

Step 47

Use isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint-free microfiber cloth to remove any thermal putty residue.
If you have to work near the small resistors, use cotton swabs instead.

Step 48

To prevent the thermal putty from sticking to your fingers, consider wearing nitrile gloves.
Grab a small piece of thermal putty. Refer to the size of the thermal pad you're replacing for how much you need.

Step 49

Roll the thermal putty into a ball.
Place the thermal putty where the damaged thermal pad was, making sure it's centered over the component—in this case a memory chip.
Optionally, you can use the flat end of a spudger (or an included applicator) to spread the thermal putty over the surface of the component.
When you reattach the heat sink, you'll compress the thermal putty and it'll spread the ball out.

Step 50

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to the processor and use a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth to wipe away any residue.
If you have to work near the small resistors, use cotton swabs instead.

Step 51

Repeat the previous step for the thermal paste on the heat sink.
You can use a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste on the heat sink if it's too dried out.

Step 52

Apply a small bead of thermal paste to the center of the APU.
Follow this guide in reverse order starting with this step to reattach the heat sink. Placing the heat sink back on the processor will evenly spread the thermal paste (and thermal putty if applicable) and bond both parts together.